Over a year in the making, Aurelie Bidermann’s first jewellery collection focuses on quality and luminosity. Gold rules supreme, adorned with pastels or neon brights; gently hammered surfaces shimmer and shine, playfully contrasting the glimmer of gems with matte patina finishes. Cooler coloured gems champagne and chocolate toned diamonds, azure and mauve sapphires, raspberry rubies, emerald green tsavorites and green and pink tourmalines have all been selected on the basis of their purity and natural sparkle. The beauty and intensity of these gems is married to an exceptional savoir-faire. The job of creating the 40 pieces in the collection has been wholly entrusted to a Parisian jewellery workshop, from cutting through to setting. The result is a purity of line and impeccable finish (with the clips a technical marvel practically invisible to the naked eye). This expertise is particularly evident in the Elephant sculptural necklace featuring 30 multi-coloured sapphires and 12 diamonds, and the Scarab cuff with over 800 gems on the front (1.5 carat grapefruit and lychee pink sapphires) and delicate ajoure openwork in a grill pattern underneath.
This is a collection that elevates jewellery to great heights sunlit, exotic and glamorous. Aurelie Bidermann manages to infuse her creations with the spirit of travel a rare quality indeed. The colours of India, the purity of the light in Greece, the specialist gold and silversmitheries of the medieval period evoked by the scarab ring... Jewellery with soul. A past. The magic of gold lace and of collectable Charms, lucky charm bracelets with individual pieces that you add to a chain or charm versions for the ears - hoop earrings worn as either a matching pair or mismatched. Genuine Maison Bidermann DNA they are rendered sublime here with the addition of diamonds (ladybirds with moveable wings), rubies (a nibbled apple in the centre) and tsavorites (scarabs in three shades of green) or as delicately hand-engraved pieces (nautili set with multicoloured sapphires).
And the high point ? The Cashmere jewellery set, available as a necklace, bracelet, ring and hoop earrings, as bright and dazzling as the sun. Yellow gold inlaid with marquise gems pink and green tourmalines or translucent aquamarines and grainy floral decor dotted here and there with dazzling rubies and diamonds. You feel like you’re in Jaipur during the wedding season. Glamour plus a certain exuberant love of life. Jewellery that has the cheek to be worn during the day. And why not every day ? Indeed.